I was able to trace each pair of wires to the front of the case and them match them to the connector on the mobo. Lenovo g31t-lm motherboard manual I need the pin positions for the front panel connectors- power switch, power led, reset, speaker, etc. Helpful 1 Not Helpful Comment Flag. Answered on Nov 24, Your answer needs to include more details to help people.
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The prep process is the same regardless the specific model number. Above: This tablet screen is equipped with a pressure-sensitive front surface to detect finger contact as well as pen-input. The touch sensitive front layer is connected to the Wacom controller via the ribbon cable circled in red.
Finger-touch was available with both the older green-and-rust-colored Wacom backplanes as well as the later blue-and-silver version pictured. Panels without the indicated ribbon cable accepted pen input only.
Remove the two machine screws fastening the LCD controller board to the frame. Flexing the cables is mostly safe, but never tug or peel the connection, or try to lift or move the panel by the controller board.
This style of Wacom is secured to the screen frame with both tape and two machine screws circled in blue , where the blue-and-silver version is only taped in place. The machine screws holding the LCD panel controller to the frame are circled in red. This particular screen does not have the finger-touch option. Carefully remove the Wacom digitizer backplane from the panel. Pull gently and slowly; do not crease or break the white frame or exposed portions of the white plastic sheet inside the frame.
The Wacom backplane itself is fairly sturdy. Replace for now the two machine screws fastening the LCD controller board to the frame. The screws will have to come back out again later to allow replacing the Wacom backplane during reassembly.
Remove the thin white polyester tape that joins the metal frame to the white plastic frame, located along the bottom of the panel near the backlight. Also remove the thin yellow tape underneath to expose the tiny machine screws on the far left and the far right side of the panel. Above: The pieces of white and yellow tape removed in step 6 are circled in red. Breaking the backlight bracket ground connection The next few steps are optional to prevent any accidental short circuits between the LED supply and a grounded backlight bracket.
Remove the metal clips on the sides of the panel that cover the plastic mounting tabs and are secured to the white plastic frame with tiny screws. After removing the clips, replace the screws to re-secure the underlying metal tabs extending from the backlight bracket.
Above: Remove the backlight grounding clips by first unscrewing the screw fastening them to the backlight bracket, then sliding them off the plastic mounting tab. The solution: Cut the clip in half so that only the portion surrounding the white plastic mounting tab remains see below. Above: The two clips on either side of the panel that connect the backlight bracket to ground also function as spacers and reinforcements around the plastic mounting tabs.
We cut the connection to the backlight bracket off each clip, and will replace the clips back onto the mounting tabs later during final reassembly. Carefully remove or just peel up the side of the white protective tape along the right side of the panel. This tape covers three short, flexible ribbon cable tabs extending from the side of the glass LCD layer. The connections between the ribbon and glass are fragile; do not pull on the exposed tabs. Unscrew the two black machine screws on the sides of the screen near the bottom that attach the metal outer frame to the inner plastic frame.
Above left: Remove the tape along the bottom and right side of the panel that secures the metal outer frame to the inner plastic frame, backlight bracket, and rear reflector. Also remove the two black screws, one on the left and one on the right blue arrows , that attach the metal frame to the bottom of the plastic inner frame. Above right: Panel after tape and screw removal. The protective white tape along the right of the screen covered three flexible cable tabs that curl from the front of the screen and protrude slightly above the frame.
Take care handling the tabs as their connection to the glass LCD layer is fragile. Do not replace the black screws we removed from the sides of the frame, as we still need to pop the metal frame open later. Remove the two tiny black screws on the back of the panel that connect the backlight bracket to the two metal side-mounting clips one on each side. The side-mounting clips both provide the mounting threads for the hinges and connect the backlight bracket to ground.
To sever the ground path, we cut off the tab that connects to the backlight bracket. The connecting tabs can simply be bent back and cut with diagonals, though this will probably leave a raised sharp edge. Personally, I prefer to remove the clips, make a clean cut cut, and replace. Return the two small screws that fasten the backlight bracket to the plastic frame.
Removing the clip allows for a cleaner cut. Above right: Picture of the removed mounting clip after cutting off the tab that provides a ground path for the metal backlight bracket. The black screw at top fastened the metal frame to the mounting clip. The black screw at bottom fastened the clip to the backlight bracket and the backlight bracket to the plastic inner frame.
Remove the white and the yellow pieces of polyester tape along the bottom and sides of the panel that secure the frame, backlight bracket, and rear reflector surface to one another. Remove the aluminum tape on the bottom right that provides an electrical ground connection between the backlight bracket and outer metal frame.
Above: Remove tape that secures the metal outer frame to the plastic inner frame, backlight bracket, and rear reflector from along the bottom and sides of the panel. The Samsung backlight bracket is grounded to the frame by a piece of conductive aluminum tape circled in red. Remove this tape to break the ground connection. CCFL removal The easiest way to remove the original CCFL is to snip the wires free at both ends of the tube, trim away the thin plastic tabs holding the backlight tube in place at both ends, and then carefully pull the CCFL tube out of the panel.
This removal strategy also clears the way for easy, slide-in LED installation. Gently pop apart the snap-together hasps along the front of the panel and one or two along each side using a small flat-blade screwdriver. Raise the metal outer frame up and away from the inner white plastic frame by a few millimeters, just enough to expose the backlight wires. Unthread the backlight wires from the inner white plastic frame and pull them forward out from the panel.
On some panels usually AFFS , the pink wire is already routed straight forward out of the frame. Above: LCD panel after pulling open the metal outer frame and unthreading the backlight wires from the inner plastic frame. Above: LCD panel after cutting backlight wires to allow easier extraction.
Trim the right tab by cutting off the plastic just below the mounting hole. Above: Closeup of the right mounting tab on a tablet LCD panel trimmed to remove the portion of the tab that obstructs clear access to the backlight channel. Snap the metal frame back into place. Make sure all hasps along the bottom and both sides are mated.
The CCFL backlight tube sits in a channel formed by the backlight reflector bracket. Clip away this plastic to expose the white silicone rubber boots that cap both ends of the CCFL tube.
Above: The backlight channel in the LCD panel is covered by thin pieces of inner white plastic frame. Cutting away this plastic exposes the backlight channel and the silicone boots that cap both ends of the CCFL tube. Extract only the boot; leave the wire and tube behind. If the boot tears and pieces are left inside, poke them out later after removing the CCFL tube.
The tube will offer slight resistance due to one or more clear silicone o-rings that brace it within the channel. Pull gently and slowly. Above: Remove one silicone boot from the left side of the CCFL tube, then slowly pull the tube and the other boot out from the right side using needle-nose pliers. After removing the CCFL tube, inspect the openings on both sides of the now empty backlight bracket. Use a hobby knife e. The TN panels have square-shaped backlight channels.
The AFFS panels have backlight channels with more rounded-off corners. Again, the rear reflector sheet protrudes into the channel.
Panel HTX and similar only: Return the black screws that secure the sides of the metal front frame to the internal plastic frame. Panel HTX and similar only: Cut small pieces of paper to cover the flexible cable tabs along the side of the panel and prevent replacement tape next step from sticking to the tabs. Replace any tape removed during panel disassembly. The original tape is likely not reusable; clear polyester packing tape makes an excellent replacement.
Above: Panel HTX reassembled with paper pieces step 12 covering the flexible cable tabs and transparent polyester packing tape replacing the tape removed from the right side during disassembly. Tablet panels only: replace the Wacom backplane. At this point the panel should be completely reassembled with the exception of the mounting tab clips on the tablet panels; those must be replaced after fitting the LED backlight. Slide a thin 10mil,.
Then slide the LED strip into place in front of the shim, also from the right side. When sliding the LED strip into place, the fit should be just a bit snug. If the fit is loose, repeat the process adding another shim behind the strip. If the fit is too snug or the LED strip will not slide into place at all, remove a shim. Due to a slight constriction at the entrance to the backlight channels of some screens, the best fit may be achieved with the shim sitting slightly inside the panel from the entrance side, and the entirely of the excess extending from the exit side.
Right: A Daylight strip used with a front accordian shim avoids the vast majority of the pattern. The accordian strips are exactly the right length once installed and flattened out slightly , so the easiest strategy is often to carefully feed it in along with the strip.
Once inserted, verify the strip is situated vertically. Fitting is complete. If the LED strip rotates in the channel or sits too far back, the apparent screen illumination will dim and shift toward yellow. Several of the Chinese kits provide double-sided adhesive tape and incomplete instructions suggesting the LEDs should be affixed firmly to the back or bottom of the backlight reflector bracket that held the CCFL.
It sacrifices easily half the available brightness of the LEDs. It places them too far away from the waveguide and in the wrong position. I consider easy slide-out, slide-in replacement a virtue worth preserving. We want to install these strips with the circuit board situated perfectly vertically and, except on SXGA screens, the LEDs pressed right against the internal acrylic waveguide.
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